I have a 1953 F-100 with the original drive train. I had some serious health
problems for a few years and was unable to use my truck. When I was finally
able to get around again I wanted to take the truck for a spin. Well, the
engine is now seized. It ran like we the people before my illness. I think
that maybe the rings rusted to the cylinder walls due to condensation.
Anyone out there have any suggestions? TIA.

Well, there is always the "Remove plugs, spray WD-40 in hole" trick you can
use. Let it sit for a day or so, then put a breaker-bar on the crank pulley
bolt and give it a turn (don't force it or break the bolt!).

You didn't mention if it had a stick-clutch or automatic setup... I've seen
clutch disks stick to flywheels too... depressing the clutch pedal wouldn't
free it, but it was obvious once the starter tried to engage and tried to
move the P/U at the same time!

You still have to be careful because valves can stick in the open position
as well... at this point, it may be worth pulling the rocker cover(s) and
checking each valve as well. A light tap or push on each valve can determine
if things are okay there as well. Also, loosen the accessory belt(s) and
make sure the water pump, generator, and whatever else is there is free to
rotate.

Also, starter motors themselves can be seized... so without further detail,
hard to make any more suggestions. Don't forget to check and change the oil
and coolant before you really try to fire it up!

If you do get it running, don't push it until it warms up to operating temp
at idle... gives things a chance to loosen up and get the new oil
circulating... then use some crankcase flush, then change the oil again.
I've installed a few used junkyard engines in cars and they can take 2 or 3
oil changes and a few hours running before oil pressure and such gets up to
stuff and things start working properly, lifters quiet down and such. The
trick is to assume it is all gunked up and needs to be cleaned up and
varnish and stuff have to be rinsed out.

Good luck!



Tex


"Tony" <wild1nospam@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:FIl8f.15402$NJ.11107@bignews7.bellsouth.net.. .

"Tex" <someone@somehwere.com> wrote in message
news:8Ks8f.4381$D13.2256@newssvr11.news.prodigy.co m...

All good tips, but instead of wasting time with WD40, get a squirt style oil
can, four or five squirts in each cylinder, and use ether kerosene, or
Marvel Mystery Oil. If you can find SeaFoam that works well too.
Plan to let it soak a day or two, leave the plugs out when you try to turn
it over. You may have to do this a couple times, Used to use kerosene to
get pistons freed up in 'One Lungger" engines, also called flywheel engines
like the 12 HP gearless Olds I helped restore and numerous Sears Econos and
Fairbanks Morris. (the olds was my favorite, it was a hit and miss ignition
system) Of course this means an oil change before starting it because the
kerosene will end up in the crankcase.
If flywheel/clutch plate is suspect jack up and put jack stands under the
rear dif and see if you can turn it over then. This was a big problem with
english cars if they sat for any time.

Whitelightning

"Tony" <wild1nospam@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:FIl8f.15402$NJ.11107@bignews7.bellsouth.net.. .

Any luck yet?
Whitelightning

Nope. Read somewhere that I should be patient. It said that it may take a
few tries. Thanks for asking.
Tony

PS: Drop the nospam from the email address if you want to write.

"Whitelightning" <white.lightning2@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:hBycf.22043$Ny6.6907@trnddc06...

"Tony" <wild1nospam@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:eUDcf.48744$ty1.33440@bignews1.bellsouth.net. ..
Any luck yet? Pics?
Whitelightning