I am building a countach replica out of an 86 Fiero GT 2.8l V6. I am running
a fuel cell with a new MSD #2225 High pressure fuel pump. I have droped the
engine back into the car and everything has been running fine as of last week.
I added antifreeze for the first time to the engine today and then started
the motor and let it run for about 20 minutes and then shut it off. I
immediately decided to crank the engine over again and it would crank fast...
but not start. Checked for proper timing and spark. Checked for fuel
pressure to the rail and plenty of it. I checked the middle trunk side spark
plug and no gas on it. Let the fuel pump run some more by manualy activating
it and still no fuel on the plug. I then turned the key and started the
engine and it immediately started and ran fine without hesitation and idled
beutifully. I turned the engine off and tried to restart it....not a cough
or sputter. Manualy ran the fuel pump for about 8 seconds and the car fires
right up and continues to run for as long as I do not turn off the key. This
same senario happens over and over again. Why will the car not start until
the fuel pump runs for 8 seconds prior to starting? I have not found
anywhere air can get into the line.

I have over 40 psi of fuel to the rail
I have a brand new fuel filter

Please help...I am going in for paint in 2 weeks...and dont want to push,
pull and drag this thing into the booth LOL.

Thanks,
Chris, OHIO

Have a helper flip the key on - listen for the pump.
Nothing? Probably the FP relay (was located in front of the air filter
housing).

The oil pressure switch is supposed to be a backup to the relay - possibly
it's going bad and won't flick over until the pressure is really high.

These things are semi tough to find without being there ya know.

If all the above fails.... believe it or not.... replace the ignition
module!
If it's half bad (yes, it can be!) and not feeding back pulses to the ECM,
the ECM won't turn the injectors on (since it can't tell that the engine is
now running).


"Countach" <u25884@uwe> wrote in message news:6579adfcad92c@uwe...

The FP relay kicks in for 2 seconds with the ignition in run position.

As of right now I cant tell wheather the FP is running in the start / crank
position(Cant hear the fuel cell that far away LOL).

If I have 40 psi plus to the fuel rail shouldnt the engine start for a few
seconds no matter if the fuel pump is continuing to run in the run position.


I also just found out my alternator is not working??? Dont know if it has
been working last week or not or ever....but definitely dead now. I would
not think the alternator would have anything to do with the car not firing.

The engine does run for as long as I want it to until I turn the key off.
Then I must go through the manual 8 second fuel pump power up to get it to
start again. I assume from this that the fuel pump is continuing to run in
the run position by the ECM when motor is firing.

I cant get my oil pressure gage to work...dont know if it is the sender or
the cluster. Only gage that does not work right now. Oil gage always reads
"PEGGED" pressure no matter if engine is running or not.

Have not check the Ignition module, yet...but when I was rotating the
distributer when the ignition was in the run position the fuel pump kicked on
all by itself for 2 seconds out of the blue...Could something be loose to the
module or surrounding wires? However the FP always kicks on for 2 second
after the switch has been moved into run.

Out of curiosity could it be a cold start valve? Cold start injector?

I dont get it...Everything was working fine until I let the engine idle for
20 minutes...Of course it has been 6 years since the engine or electronics
have been used. Always garaged though.

I have 5 fieros...3 of which are kit cars and 2 of which are running parts
cars...So its not a big deal to throw parts at this project to get things
right.

Sorry for writing a book...Any additional comments would be appreciated!!!!
Thanks John for your comments.

If anyone has the time to talk fiero issues you could email me your phone
number with best time to call: email address is jimbo243@hotmail.com. I
would greatly appreciate it!!!




John Craker wrote:

I just sprayed some starter fluid into the air intake and it starts right up
and stays running fine until I turn the key off. When I try to restart the
same problem describe before happens. Does this mean the control module is
most likely the culprit...or is there something else I might be missing.

Countach wrote:

OK...this morning the car starts everytime from a cold start. After the
engine heats up I run into the same problem again.

Countach wrote:

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Countach via CarKB.com wrote:
This all sounds like ignition module. The first symptom of failure is no
spark when sitting a few moments while hot. If the the module does not
generate the signal to the ecm it will not inject any fuel. One quick
clue is the tachometer, it should read the cranking speed while
cranking, 300-400rpm. If it reads zero you definitely have ignition
module problems.

I burned out a starter and had to pay for a tow home after repeated
instances of this same problem. Of course after replacing the starter
the thing started right up since it was cold.

RW

I am getting spark when engine is hot

The RPM gauge reads approx 400 RPM when cranking

Doe this still sound like the control module?

R W Hughes wrote:

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My local parts store said they can test the module. Are these test full
proof or hit and miss with my situation?

Countach wrote:

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Countach via CarKB.com wrote:
The only reliable test is replacement. They aren't that expensive or
hard to change out.

Just got back from the parts store and the module tested fine. Also to note
that this module was brand new and came with a new distributor and rotor and
cap 6 years ago...all this was just fired for the first time a few weeks ago.
Is their any chance that the ecm might be bad or other issues

R W Hughes wrote:

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