PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR ADVICE AND OPINIONS

Ok i have a 1999 subaru forester with the 2.5l sohc engine. It has
79,000 miles on it and i just baught it a couple weeks ago. In the 2
weeks i noticed that it has blue smoke from the muffler. Now to me
that would be oil. I then checked the oil (had a oil change as soon as
i baught it with mobil one 5-30) with only 300 miles on it and i was a
qt low. I then added a qt of mobil one and drove it 150 miles. It then
was barly on the stick.

At the same time the check engine light came on. I scanned it and it
came up with miss fire on cyl 3. I changed the plugs and disconected
the battery to reset the code. i drove it and after one mile the light
came back. Scanned it again and it said miss fire cyl 3. I then
disconected the battery for 10 min and played with the plug wires
making sure there was a good connection with cyl 3 and started it and
drove it again. NO check engine light so far with 8 miles.

ok for the questions...... im going to get new plug wires tommarow,
but is this a common problem. i searched the old threds and this is
the only think i could find was a plug wire problem with other
peple....

2nd the oil part. I found another thread saying it was a common
problem and i would have to change the oil pump o ring and gasket? is
this true or is it proubably going to be cyl rings?

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR ADVICE AND OPINIONS

--
Posted at author's request, using http://www.AutoBoardz.com interface
Articles individually verified to usenet standards. Visit URL to contact author/report abuse
Thread archive: http://www.AutoBoardz.com/99-forest...pict185046.html

lpasco wrote:

128K miles on my '99 Outback and no trouble with misfires
or plug wires.


The oil pump issue is for an oil leak, not oil burning.
The symptoms are oil all over the pan and the upper
exhaust plumbing and a burnt oil smell after a long
drive.

Blue smoke out the exhaust is something else. Have
it checked by a mechanic. Wornout rings at 79k miles
seems real unlikely unless the car has been seriously
abused.

Remove the plugs and check for oil fouling. Also compare them to each
other. If all look the same, then engine is probably good. Three look
the same but the fourth is very different then this means a problem. May
as well just replace them in the process. Check out the PCV valve. Fair
chance it is clogged and needs replaced. Worn valve stem seals and worn
valve stems/guides are also causes of "blue smoke".

johninKY wrote:

excellent post. The PCV system, if it has never been serviced, may be
the problem. If so, easy fix. Do it soon as the cat converter is working
hard with oil going through it.
The smoke is definitely oil right? Not white ans sweet smelling - like
toatsed marshmallows?

Carl


--
to reply, change ( .not) to ( .net)

I agree with Jim S. Check the PCV hoses for kinks or plugged. If the
PCV hoses are ok check or replace the PCV valve.

i have allready changed the pcv valve. I changed the spark plugs and
number 3 was oily. i installed the new ones drove it 10 miles and the
mis fire cam back. pulled the plugs and 3 was oily on the new plug.
did a compression test and number 3 only has 45 lbs pressure while
number 1 has 150. so i think its safe to say it is the piston rings.
As i type this i have the engine completly disconected from the rest
of the car except the engine to trans bolts. bottom 2 mount bolts, top
wishbone mount and exhaust.(15 min left)

now is it possable to only be valve problems causing it to only have
50 psi? also when pulling the engine, it looks easier to remove the 2
front drive shafts and rear driveline and pull the engine with tranny
right?


thanks to all with your input and i hope to hear more

"Edward Hayes" wrote:

--
Posted at author's request, using http://www.AutoBoardz.com interface
Articles individually verified to usenet standards. Visit URL to contact author/report abuse
Thread archive: http://www.AutoBoardz.com/99-forest...pict185046.html

Ok, you've checked the PCV valve & hoses so it is not caused by
pressure buildup in the crankcase. You have only ~80,000 miles on the
engine so you may have only a stuck piston oil control ring. I don't
remember you saying what the compression was on the other cylinders as
it would be interesting to know. I would, before tearing into the
engine repeat the compression test using the dry & then wet method. If
the compression increases appreciably then it is piston rings. If
there is not increase in compression then it is the intake valve
guides. Rarely does it happen but, a valve guide can come loose and
cause this type of problem. Do the homework before tearing the engine
down. JMO Ed

Another possibility is a blown HG that is allowing just oil to enter the
cylinder.

Hi Ipasco!

On Tue, 03 Oct 2006 05:23:33 GMT, lpasco <none@000.com> wrote:



Not real likely, but certainly possible. Ed has outlined testing to
determine where the loss of compression is happening; I'd do this
before attempting to pull the engine. Does sound like rings to me,
tho. Mmmmm, if it _is_ the rings, and unless you are fairly
adventurous, you are probably going to be time and money ahead by
simply finding a used motor, or even stepping up to a rebuilt one
(Colorado Component Rebuilders) as opposed to trying to DIY one;
Subaru motors aren't trivial to open up, and even less so to put back
together. Servicing the heads/valve train is a perfectly reasonable
home project, tho.


You can absolutely pull the engine and tranny as a unit. You will need
to remove the subframe from beneath the transmission (this for the
Legacys and Imprezas, I assume the Forry will be similar . . .), the
rear drive shaft, and disconnect the front half shafts from the
tranny. Disconnect the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle
(remove the pinch bolt and use a prybar) to facilitate this.
You will also need to drain the tranny fluid (rear seal mates to the
drive shaft), and disconnect the shift linkages, wiring harness, etc.
Also have plenty of oil dry ready; you'll get another couple pints of
fluid out of the tail when you start lifting the engine.
That said, unless you have some real need to pull the tranny, it's
probably not worth the extra effort IMO.

Good luck with your project; check back in if you get stuck.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

It seems as if the oil piston ring had gotten stuck. I would try any of
the products available to try and free it before going any further

lpasco wrote: