Thanks for your responses. It appears that the deletion took place on
my server.

I've been pressure bleeding on other cars a Mercedes and an older VW
transporter. I never had this problem.

Near the rear axel there are are two small cylinders - they may be
check valves- brake fluid enters at one point and exits perhaps 50mm
away. Does this have to be purged?

Constantine

Constantine wrote:


Those are the proportioning valves, you don't have to do anything
special with them. You do need to bleed the calipers in the correct
order or air will remain.

On Sat, 07 Oct 2006 00:44:26 GMT, James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com>
wrote:


I start with the rear passanger side ( LR) then the rear driver's
side(RR) and the to the front passanger side (LF) and finally to the
front driver's side (R F). I am really at loss with this relatively
simple procedure. Is there any problem with pressure bleeding on
the Volvo in general or the 244 specifically?
Constantine

I use a pressure bleeder, here's the proceedure:

8 bleeders (3 on each front, 1 on each rear caliper).

Bleed them in this order:

Left rear
Left front (top)
Right front (top)
Right rear
Right front (both lower)
Left front (both lower)

If you had a newer 240 with ABS you'd follow this order:

Left rear
Right rear
Left front
Right front

Constantine wrote:

Hate to say this, but you know you bleed each side of the front caliper
separately?

--
---
Marten

I really appreciate the information. I've been using the method for
newer cars.

Incidentally, my pressure bleeder is home made and consist of brass
fittings, a check valve, two ball valves and a pressure gauge. The
adapter to the reservoir was purchased seperately. I pump air
directly into the reservoir at 15psi.



On Sat, 07 Oct 2006 04:23:33 GMT, James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com>
wrote:

Thanks Marten.

Yes, I do but unfortunately I did not use the method which
James (see previous entry) suggested. I used the method for the newer
240 with the ABS.

As an added note to all, the car was not level. It will when I bleed
it again tomorrow.

Thanks for your thoughts.
Constantine


On Sat, 07 Oct 2006 09:15:09 +0200, M-gineering
<ikmotgeenspam@m-gineering.nl> wrote:

Just an added comment. My front callipers have two bleeding valves on
top and one on the bottom. I assume that both top valves should be
bled at the same time per your schedule.


On Sat, 07 Oct 2006 04:23:33 GMT, James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com>
wrote:

Constantine wrote:

_____
A slight slope is not that significant.

_____
James Sweet's procedure is technically correct. I have, however, had
perfectly fine results bleeding brakes on my 240 cars starting at the
brake with the longest lines away from the Master Brake Cylinder; R
Rear, L Rear, R Front (both sides), L Front (both sides). I use a
narrow ID size tygon (PVC) plastic hose with a non-return ball check
valve. I connect the hose with a tight fitting rubber sleeve on a bleed
nipple and open it 1/8 to 1/4 turn with a 8mm box end wrench. Then i
put the end of the hose in a glass jar. I then pump the brake pedal
five times, and make sure that i do not exceed about 60% to 70% of full
stroke. If i don't see air bubble in the tygon (PVC) hose, then that
particular brake cylinder is done. If i see air bubbles, i pump five
more times. This has always worked for me. The reason the car is never
level is because one side or the other is raised by the jack to take the
wheel off.
--
Regards / JCH

Yikes, get a set of jack stands and support the whole car, it's much
safer as well as you can have all the wheels off at once in case you
need to go back over one.