Hi,

I'm trying to fit an after market remote central locking kit to my 1994
318i E36

The chap I bought it from gave me instructions as to what colour wires
go where - I am fairly clued up with DC electrics and thought this
should be a doddle

HOWEVER - having stripped out the glovebox and found the ZKE IV and the
yellow plug - the wire colours are different to what I was told they
should be - so I stripped out the connector - and there is a missing
connection at one of the pins that I was told to use...

I tried using a multimeter to try and find lock/unlock pins - but no joy

I have been trawling the internet looking for suggestions and found the
power window lock mod (+12v to yellow connector -pin 19) and thaught I'd
try that - but even that pin doesn't seem to work with my module - yes
the doors were all closed etc..

The normal central locking works fine all round using both the internal
door lock doorpins and from outside using the key - perhaps mine is
wired differently to US ones - being that I'm in the UK??

I even stripped a door card off to see what colour wires they use - but
failed in trying to trace the wires to see if there is a hidden relay
box (not one behind either of the speakers as suggested elsewhere) the
only location of relay noise for door locking is coming from the ZKE IV
module - so I assume that the wires must change colour somewhere within
the loom??

I did think about just opening the ZKE IV module and feeling for which
relay is doing each task and then soldering onto the board :-0
There must be another way to do this!!!

Before I give in and take it to an auto electrician - does anyone have
any other suggestions as to how to find a pin that will lock the doors
and a pin that will unlock???
(not even going into the windows full closure bit yet!)

Regards
Rob

In article <ewbWg.4290$9K1.620@newsfe3-win.ntli.net>,
rob <robocog2003@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

IIRC, the lock/unlock control wires are Brown and Yellow/Blue - ie the
ones from the switch on the door. But it depends on how your remote works
- some just zap a power pulse across the motor lines.

--
*Virtual reality is its own reward*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Ok have managed to get it running
The original notes that the seller gave were indeed correct - despite
there being a missing wire on one of the pins and the different colour
scheme on the wiring..(I know it doesn't matter what colour the
insulation is on the outside -I was just paranoid that I couldn't really
afford to burn the mysterious black box full of voodoo out)
Got a confirmation email from the seller that the pinouts are indeed
correct and to try it out

So just to clear it up for anyone else in the future..

If you have a ZKE IV module - the lock / unlock pins are in the yellow
26 way connector (central one) on the module
The connector is easy to dismantle and re assemble (and is self
explanatory when you look at it)

Unlock is pin 4
Lock is pin 17

I ended up just baring a piece of wire and pushing it into the hole
(unlock pin 17) in the connector and curling it round the end - which
seems to make good connection and hold the wire in place OK

Indeed Dave you are quite right - it just momentarily puts a 12v to the
pins mentioned above (via internal relays - nothing fancy - hence the
price :-)

The unit I got was really cheap (eBay)
It also rolls the windows up by using another relay and a third output
from the unit (by holding it in the locked position for a few seconds)
a bonus to this is if I hit the unlock shortly after hitting lock -it
dead locks the doors and locks the petrol flap :-)
I know that you can do the same thing by using a pair of diodes to
automatically dead lock , but am happy for now that hitting lock unlock
does everything I want it to
The only downside to this is you have to wait till all the relays have
stopped doing their stuff (30 seconds I suppose?) before being able to
unlock the car from the remote - not that this is a very likely scenario

Regards
Rob