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  #1  
Old 10-08-2006, 12:25 PM
Phil Kallis Phil Kallis is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 16
Default 96 850 GLT - Steam/Vapor coming from Vents

Dear Listers,

I noticed that the coolant was low, so I added to the reservoir, started
the engine, left the cap off and went to do something else, while the
engine was warming up. I come back to see that the overflow reservoir is
boiling happily away. So, I shut the engine down, replaced the cap and
restarted the engine and left to go finish something else.

When I came back steam/vapor was coming from the air vents, so selected
a higher setting for the fan. It blew the vapor away temporarily, but I
could see vapor still coming out of the side vents of the dash, where it
goes into the door panel. (The driver's door was open). I shut the fan
down and the vapor came seeping back through all the vents and it was
quite hot.

The ambient temperature was about 20 C (68 F) and the thermostat setting
was on 72 degrees and the A/C compressor switch was off and the
recirculation toggle switch was off. (Light was not on and fresh air was
coming in).

What gives? Can I drive this car without the cooling system blowing up?

Thanks for any advice....
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  #2  
Old 10-08-2006, 12:28 PM
James Sweet James Sweet is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,469
Default 96 850 GLT - Steam/Vapor coming from Vents

pkallis wrote:
Quote:
Dear Listers, I noticed that the coolant was low, so I added to the reservoir, started the engine, left the cap off and went to do something else, while the engine was warming up. I come back to see that the overflow reservoir is boiling happily away. So, I shut the engine down, replaced the cap and restarted the engine and left to go finish something else. When I came back steam/vapor was coming from the air vents, so selected a higher setting for the fan. It blew the vapor away temporarily, but I could see vapor still coming out of the side vents of the dash, where it goes into the door panel. (The driver's door was open). I shut the fan down and the vapor came seeping back through all the vents and it was quite hot. The ambient temperature was about 20 C (68 F) and the thermostat setting was on 72 degrees and the A/C compressor switch was off and the recirculation toggle switch was off. (Light was not on and fresh air was coming in). What gives? Can I drive this car without the cooling system blowing up? Thanks for any advice....



Your heater core has failed, you'll have to get that replaced before it
makes a real mess. It probably won't blow up, but it will leak coolant
into your interior and it's not good for you to breathe the vapor either.
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  #3  
Old 10-08-2006, 01:31 PM
Michael Pardee Michael Pardee is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,275
Default 96 850 GLT - Steam/Vapor coming from Vents

"pkallis" <pkallis@ameritech.net> wrote in message
news:x8dWg.10800$e66.9809@newssvr13.news.prodigy.c om...
Quote:
Dear Listers, I noticed that the coolant was low, so I added to the reservoir, started the engine, left the cap off and went to do something else, while the engine was warming up. I come back to see that the overflow reservoir is boiling happily away. So, I shut the engine down, replaced the cap and restarted the engine and left to go finish something else. When I came back steam/vapor was coming from the air vents, so selected a higher setting for the fan. It blew the vapor away temporarily, but I could see vapor still coming out of the side vents of the dash, where it goes into the door panel. (The driver's door was open). I shut the fan down and the vapor came seeping back through all the vents and it was quite hot. The ambient temperature was about 20 C (68 F) and the thermostat setting was on 72 degrees and the A/C compressor switch was off and the recirculation toggle switch was off. (Light was not on and fresh air was coming in). What gives? Can I drive this car without the cooling system blowing up? Thanks for any advice....


As James says, the heater core has failed... the symptoms are unmistakable.
(I'm assuming the vapor had the sweetish odor of antifreeze.) Unfastening
the heater hoses and plugging them will allow you to drive it until you can
get the heater core replaced if there will be a long lead time, but then you
will have no heat and no defroster.

If you drive the way it is you risk warping the cylinder head.

Mike


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  #4  
Old 10-08-2006, 02:19 PM
Phil Kallis Phil Kallis is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 16
Default 96 850 GLT - Steam/Vapor coming from Vents

Hmmm.... sounds like bad news. Any ideas of what this would cost me to
replace?

Michael Pardee wrote:
Quote:
"pkallis" <pkallis@ameritech.net> wrote in messagenews:x8dWg.10800$e66.9809@newssvr13.news.pr odigy.com...
Quote:
Dear Listers,I noticed that the coolant was low, so I added to the reservoir, startedthe engine, left the cap off and went to do something else, while theengine was warming up. I come back to see that the overflow reservoir isboiling happily away. So, I shut the engine down, replaced the cap andrestarted the engine and left to go finish something else.When I came back steam/vapor was coming from the air vents, so selected ahigher setting for the fan. It blew the vapor away temporarily, but Icould see vapor still coming out of the side vents of the dash, where itgoes into the door panel. (The driver's door was open). I shut the fandown and the vapor came seeping back through all the vents and it wasquite hot.The ambient temperature was about 20 C (68 F) and the thermostat settingwas on 72 degrees and the A/C compressor switch was off and therecirculation toggle switch was off. (Light was not on and fresh air wascoming in).What gives? Can I drive this car without the cooling system blowing up?Thanks for any advice....
As James says, the heater core has failed... the symptoms are unmistakable.(I'm assuming the vapor had the sweetish odor of antifreeze.) Unfasteningthe heater hoses and plugging them will allow you to drive it until you canget the heater core replaced if there will be a long lead time, but then youwill have no heat and no defroster.If you drive the way it is you risk warping the cylinder head.Mike



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  #5  
Old 10-08-2006, 02:46 PM
Big Dick Big Dick is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 31
Default 96 850 GLT - Steam/Vapor coming from Vents

Replace the thermostat and ect sensor below the t-stat also.
Water should not be boiling out of the coolant bottle,
even with the coolant cap removed.
The electric cooling fan should have turned on instead.
The coolant boiling out in probablly due to a stuck closed t-stat.
The extra water pressure could have caused the heater core 2 fail and
start leaking.
The heater core is probably $300 to $400 and about
1hr to 1.5 hours labor.
You can not plug off the heater hoses.
The hoses have quick release fitting on them.
The one hose is pressurized anyway.
BD
"pkallis" <pkallis@ameritech.net> wrote in message
news:x8dWg.10800$e66.9809@newssvr13.news.prodigy.c om...
Quote:
Dear Listers, I noticed that the coolant was low, so I added to the reservoir, started the engine, left the cap off and went to do something else, while the engine was warming up. I come back to see that the overflow reservoir is boiling happily away. So, I shut the engine down, replaced the cap and restarted the engine and left to go finish something else. When I came back steam/vapor was coming from the air vents, so selected a higher setting for the fan. It blew the vapor away temporarily, but I could see vapor still coming out of the side vents of the dash, where it goes into the door panel. (The driver's door was open). I shut the fan down and the vapor came seeping back through all the vents and it was quite hot. The ambient temperature was about 20 C (68 F) and the thermostat setting was on 72 degrees and the A/C compressor switch was off and the recirculation toggle switch was off. (Light was not on and fresh air was coming in). What gives? Can I drive this car without the cooling system blowing up? Thanks for any advice....



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  #6  
Old 10-09-2006, 11:53 AM
James Sweet James Sweet is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,469
Default 96 850 GLT - Steam/Vapor coming from Vents

pkallis wrote:
Quote:
Hmmm.... sounds like bad news. Any ideas of what this would cost me to replace?



Depends, the part is $171 online, the job is quite labor intensive
though, figure 4-6 hours of shop time. Seems like I've heard it quoted
at $600-$800 to have it done at an independent shop but you'll want to
call and find out. If you're a reasonably capable home mechanic you can
do it yourself but in most cars essentially the entire dashboard has to
be removed.
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  #7  
Old 10-09-2006, 04:30 PM
Glenn Klein Glenn Klein is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 26
Default 96 850 GLT - Steam/Vapor coming from Vents

James Sweet wrote:
Quote:
pkallis wrote:
Quote:
Hmmm.... sounds like bad news. Any ideas of what this would cost me to replace?
Depends, the part is $171 online, the job is quite labor intensive though, figure 4-6 hours of shop time. Seems like I've heard it quoted at $600-$800 to have it done at an independent shop but you'll want to call and find out. If you're a reasonably capable home mechanic you can do it yourself but in most cars essentially the entire dashboard has to be removed.

Anything more then 3 Hours labor then find another repair shop the
dashboard does not have to come out to do the heater core
Glenn

--
"*-344-*Never Forgotten"
Is for the New York City Firemen who lost their lives on September 11,2001.
The official count is 343, but there was also a volunteer who lost his life
aiding in the initial rescue efforts. And I will never forget them as
long as I live,
nor should any American.
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  #8  
Old 10-09-2006, 04:59 PM
James Sweet James Sweet is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,469
Default 96 850 GLT - Steam/Vapor coming from Vents

Glenn wrote:
Quote:
James Sweet wrote:
Quote:
pkallis wrote:
Quote:
Hmmm.... sounds like bad news. Any ideas of what this would cost me to replace?
Depends, the part is $171 online, the job is quite labor intensive though, figure 4-6 hours of shop time. Seems like I've heard it quoted at $600-$800 to have it done at an independent shop but you'll want to call and find out. If you're a reasonably capable home mechanic you can do it yourself but in most cars essentially the entire dashboard has to be removed.
Anything more then 3 Hours labor then find another repair shop the dashboard does not have to come out to do the heater core Glenn



I guess they improved that on the 850? I know a heater core on a 240 is
a *major* job, having spent the better part of a day on one. Thankfully
I haven't had to find out on any newer cars yet but it doesn't look real
easy to get to on my 740 either.
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  #9  
Old 10-09-2006, 06:19 PM
Michael Pardee Michael Pardee is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,275
Default 96 850 GLT - Steam/Vapor coming from Vents

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:CfCWg.6070$K11.3233@trndny07...
Quote:
I guess they improved that on the 850? I know a heater core on a 240 is a *major* job, having spent the better part of a day on one. Thankfully I haven't had to find out on any newer cars yet but it doesn't look real easy to get to on my 740 either.


The 740 is no easier than the 240 (haven't done a 240, but I'll take your
word!). The first time it took me three days because the Haynes manual
indicated the dash didn't have to come out. Technically, I suppose it
doesn't, but it's really *much* easier to remove the dash. There is no hard
part that way (just a whole lot of tedious parts), but the passenger
compartment looks like an explosion in a wire factory by the time you get
that far.

Glad to hear about the 850.

Mike


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  #10  
Old 10-10-2006, 03:08 AM
Jarkka Jarkka is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 2
Default 96 850 GLT - Steam/Vapor coming from Vents

On Mon, 09 Oct 2006 20:30:56 -0400, Glenn <glenn@hotmail.com> wrote:
Quote:
James Sweet wrote:
Quote:
pkallis wrote:
Quote:
Hmmm.... sounds like bad news. Any ideas of what this would cost me to replace?
Depends, the part is $171 online, the job is quite labor intensive though, figure 4-6 hours of shop time. Seems like I've heard it quoted at $600-$800 to have it done at an independent shop but you'll want to call and find out. If you're a reasonably capable home mechanic you can do it yourself but in most cars essentially the entire dashboard has to be removed.
Anything more then 3 Hours labor then find another repair shop thedashboard does not have to come out to do the heater coreGlenn


I just replaced the core on my 850 - an hour and a half and the new
core was in place.
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